Common problems making leaf spring swords. |
| Many times over the years that our sword making information
has been posted we get e-mails from people all over the world telling us
about their successful sword projects. Also many times we have gotten e-mails
from people who make no progress at all. Usually there are simple problems
involved. First of all the primary essay in this sword making section of
the web site is well over twenty years old and I leave it as it is almost
in an archaeological sense. The other sections deal with handy improvements
like the straightening anvil and the grinding bench. Essential for easy
project progress. So it is important to check out the whole site to get
the most information. The most common problem is a leaf spring that is too thick and or too wide. If you have never done this re-arcing process before you will want to go out of your way to find the thinnest narrowest spring you can get. With lots of practice wider springs can be done but the thick ones are way too much for anyone at any experience level. If your spring is over a quarter inch thick, then seek another for your first project. Also common is a sledge hammer that has a corner around the edge. It is very important to round the edge of the face of the hammer. Any corner at all and the process becomes virtually impossible. A double “A” battery is a good example of the proper curve. In the same fashion the straightening anvil has to be rounded. The edges of the hollow and the sides of the rail or anvil. Again any sharp corner or edge defeats the function. Technique is the most elusive part of the process. Sometimes it helps to compare it to a more exaggerated process. Like pie crust. When pressing a pie crust into a dish the pressure is applied around the edges. And pushing slightly out not down into the dish. In a similar manner the leaf spring is hit near the edge of the hollow in the special anvil and slightly outward. A directly vertical hammer stroke into the center of the hollow mostly bounces the hammer and does not expend much energy bending the spring. A slightly angled stroke near the edge however spends more energy bending and less bouncing. Another complaint is that the spring itself bounces everywhere. Or really hurts the hand holding it. This happens when the spring is not held against both sides of the straightening anvil. Each and every hammer stroke is made one at a time. Each stroke the spring must be held firmly against both sides of the hollow in the straightening anvil. FIRMLY! Then the hammer brought down hard. Aimed so it hits inside the hollow near the edge at a slight angle towards the outside of the hollow. Then everything stops as the spring is again seated firmly against the straightening anvil. If you are hanging on to one end of the spring going bang, bang, bang with your hammer as the spring bounces you are wasting almost all your force. Slow down. One stroke at a time. Another common question is how to get leaf springs at little or no cost. Go to the junkyard in your area that crushes. They will likely have piles of springs that are only worth a few cents a pound to them. Any junkyard will have springs that are from unknown cars. Frequently just laying about on the ground. Virtually worthless. When the yards sell a rear end they usually cut the loops off the spring. Again worthless. Of course if you can be selective some leaf springs are already straight. Like some helper springs and some Jeep Cherokee springs. And the very best leaf springs for making swords are old pre-Bessemer carriage springs. Above all be patient. Take time to appreciate and enjoy each little bit of progress. |
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