How To Make A Sallet Helm With Patterns

This sallet helm was made in a few hours from an automobile hood for a workshop in 1993. Still in use as late as 2004 when this picture was taken.

	This style of helmet can be made easily by beginners in any reasonable gauge (from twenty to fourteen). No welding is required.
Composed of three components. Crown, brow, and visor.

This is a series of pictures of the actual patterns used. The squares are one inch. To duplicate make a grid of one inch squares on any suitable paper. Simply by counting squares it is possible to make a dot to dot type outline. Then address each one inch square with a line through it individually. Duplicating what is shown. Any Blankenshield pattern can be adjusted according to size by reducing or enlarging the squares according to the percentage desired. There are three different visor options. Or use no visor. Any of these components can be easily modified.

	The visor to the right makes this sort of helm. Light and open for archers or used with a bevor for heavier style armours.
For use without a bevor the center pattern requires that the visor be sunk to develop depth.

	Also requiring depth the pattern on the left allows a tight eye slot. Breathing holes or slots are up to the individual.
While not shown in pattern form here the tail found on some sallets was originally a pony tail guard. However they do increase the effectiveness of the neck protection.

	Cut away the tail as shown and add the dangling components. Loose or sliding rivets are in order.
To begin strike along the dotted line as shown. (Cut small slots in the pattern as shown). Make sure this line of impact produces a lot of depth.

	Next strike the ends of the dual lobes and all around the edges to join the first line pounded. As this happens the center between the lobes will wrinkle. Allow it.
Then the center must be sunk. Shown on a Blankenshield sinking die. Any sinking technique can be used. The cheapest and easiest is sinking into a soft substance. Shot bag or stump. However be cautioned that soft sinking produces soft armour. To harden as you pound always sink into a steel die and planish several times after sinking. At this point crush the wrinkles at the apex. Planish the tail as well as the crown.
	The brow is simply sunk. Then planished.
Assemble as shown. Extremely important!!! Always roll all components all the way around all edges. Especially the ones inside the helm. I know most of you will cheat on the rolled edges but that produces inferior even dangerous armour. Also make absolutely certain that the wrinkles at the apex are smashed flat. When lining the helm glue a round piece of heavy leather inside covering these crushed wrinkles. Then pad or make a web.